Lemongrass Asian Bistro in Fort Lauderdale

November 14, 2008

First impression: This kindred spirit spin-off of Fah, Sushi Thai and Lemongrass in Boca, Delray and Boynton offers new generation surroundings and a seemingly endless menu that zigzags between Asian cultures.

Ambience: The vibe is relaxed, like a spontaneous gathering of friends. Nine can sit at the sushi bar while the dining room offers tables and surprisingly comfy low-slung leather banquettes. Modern art touches are countered with glittery retro crystal chandeliers and gilt-edged oversize mirrors.

Starters: House-made curry puffs, (5 for $6)—light fried pastries stuffed with ground chicken, onions, sweet potatoes and yellow curry—leave me wondering which I like better; the puffs or the cucumber relish served alongside. Julienne papaya, whole shrimp, cherry tomatoes, carrots, roasted peanuts and distinctive rice wine vinaigrette make up the refreshingly delicious green papaya salad ($7). Or, dig into the long list of cleverly concocted sushi to kick off or make your meal.

Entree excellence: Slippery noodle soups are hauntingly good tugs at the soul, with each ingredient coddled and gently coaxed until every spoonful unfolds majestically. The duck noodle ($10) is a revelation of delicious stock, rice noodles, toasted garlic, bean sprouts for a crunch factor and marinated Peking duck. Order Pad Thai anywhere and you know what to expect. Here you can opt to put a spin on it by ordering Pad Thai Woonsen ($12), featuring thin glass-like cellophane noodles instead of wide rice noodles. All the anticipated goodies show up—lots of noodles perfectly soaked with a wonderful fish sauce elixir, a choice of protein, egg, scallions and ground roasted peanuts. Even the garnish is an unexpected detail — a banana leaf rolled into a cone to hold squeaky fresh bean sprouts. Anything served in a half pineapple shell might sound like a holdover from the Nixon administration, but not when it's the Hawaiian dancer ($16). The sea scallops are plump and satiny, the chicken velvety, and the veggies crisp. A delicate tamarind sauce binds everything together sweetly without going overboard.

Sides: Entrees come with house salads doused with a ginger-sparked dressing good enough to justify the $4 a la carte price tag in case you don't order an entree.

Sweet!: Sweet tooth types will melt over the non-Asian chocolate panache with decadent layers of chocolate cake and chocolate ganache, while ethnic purists might want to end with fried bananas served with coconut ice cream. They're $6 each.

Service: If the house soups don't warm you up, I'll bet the caring service will.

3811 N. Federal Highway, Fort Lauderdale

954-564-4422, lemongrassasianbistro.com

Cuisine: Asian

Cost: inexpensive to moderate

Hours: lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner daily

Reservations: recommended on weekends

Credit cards: AE, MC, V

Bar: beer, wine and sake

Sound level: average

Outside smoking: yes

For kids: boosters, high chairs

Wheelchair accessible: yes

Judith Stocks